Laissez les bons temps rouler – Let the good times roll

They say New Orleans is the USA’s ‘most interesting’ city. This is not far from the truth, as there is no other city we have visited that can usurp that claim.

The city conjures up many images, some dark, some erotic but all doused with a flavour of Jazz, creole cuisine, party vibes and of course the magnificent architecture and art history reminiscent of the French and Spanish occupation. Mystifying, is what it is.

Let your thoughts wander for a second to the TV programmes filmed here – American Horror Story, The Originals, NCIS New Orleans – and the films – Interview with a Vampire, Angel Heart, Jack Reacher, The Pelican Brief and about 100 other famous films. You’ll realise New Orleans is a virtual movie set and the French Quarter is the main stage.

Here are our tips that would make a stay in New Orleans French Quarter (Vieux Carre) more enjoyable:

  1. Don’t even think of staying in a hotel on Bourbon Street. Yes, we know, it’s definitely THE party street of New Orleans (and probably the largest collection of bars and restaurants that we have seen in one area anywhere in the world), but it is more seedy than it is exclusive. It’s a pedestrian zone at night, jam packed with people reveling in a drunken haze. We don’t even want to venture a guess as to when last any establishment along this route was actually cleaned, let alone checked for levels of acceptable health requirements. Well, except for the Hard Rock Café, which is an oasis of cleanliness and normality. They even serve your drink in a glass – something that cannot be said for any other bar along the street , (it’s all plastic mugs that can be carried outside into the street).
  2. Make sure to visit Lafittes Blacksmith Bar – it’s definitely worth the trip. While it’s a long way up Bourbon street, get there before you start a pub crawl to truly appreciate the experience.
  3.  As soon as you move away from Bourbon street, you’ll see a classy historic suburb. The area of the French Quarter closest to the CBD and the riverfront is lined with antique shops, specialty stores, lovely restaurants and bars and hotels. The French Quarter is a lovely area to stay but be warned – you will pay for the privilege. Some sound advice would be to stay in the CBD area or ‘Downtown’ as it is known. Almost all the hotels in this area are within three blocks of the French Quarter, no more than a five-minute walk. No funny sewer smells here – yes, these do tend to permeate the air in summer months along Bourbon Street – and none of the nighttime madness.
  4. Café du Monde, on the corner of Jackson Square is famous the world over. It was the first coffee stand in New Orleans and has since morphed into a large restaurant that caters for the breakfast/lunch trade. It’s worth a visit for the beignets and café au lait (do revive your faith in coffee – the USA is not very good at brewing a cup) but get there early – from 10h00 you will have to face queues to get in.
  5. Move out of the French Quarter. There is an area called Uptown or Garden district. The area features lovely homes and a street called Magazine Street. For those who don’t speak French, that means Shop Street. Its full of boutique shops and restaurants and bars – certainly of a higher quality than those found along Bourbon Street. If you are up to it, pizza at Amici will not be not the worst meal you will have.
  6.  If you really want Jazz (good jazz), then venture on the edge of Downtown (South Rampart Street). Here you will find a few old buildings remaining (the suburb was knocked down almost 100 years ago during the Great Depression) that operate a nightly jazz line ups. If you feel like something authentic then rather consider the Little Gem Saloon
  7.  Do: drink a Ramos Gin Fizz
  8.  Do: have a creole gumbo

New Orleans is an amazing city, offering something for everyone. From personal experience it seems as if it is going through something of a revival.

For your share of lagniappe (something given as a bonus or gratuity), get in touch with United Europe to arrange your New Orleans exploration.

Updated – January 2018

Mark Buck is the Managing Director of United Europe Travel Services (Pty) Ltd, a travel wholesaler based in South Africa

3 thoughts on “Laissez les bons temps rouler – Let the good times roll

  1. This is so helpful- I’m sending it to my little sister who is obsessed with New Orleans- right now! Thank you for sharing!!!! I have a few posts along the same lines as this one about different cities if you’d like to check me out!(:

    Liked by 1 person

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